THE NATURE FARM RESERVE

Across the road from Si Como No spreads a 30-acre tropical forest connected by natural tree avenues to Manuel Antonio National Park. Here visitors may indulge their senses in a Butterfly Garden, spot bird species and colonies of monkeys, and touch 200-year old trees, aided by their instructive guides. A reference library of nature books is at the disposal of visitors. 

Designed by AGUILA, the association of nature guides with Maurilio Cordero as Project Manager, the refuge uses 100 per cent of the entrance fees to maintain itself. Various tours are presently available, and by the end of January, a spectacular night tour of surround-sound-and-image will be added to the program. The farm is a thrill that every visitor to Manuel Antonio should experience. 

Contact: info@butterflygardens.co.cr Advance booking may be arranged through fincasnaturales@racsa.co.cr, or phone/fax 777-0850 and 777-0973.

QUEPOS HOT SPRINGS, GETTING HOTTER

If I have trouble reading my notes on this one, you can´t blame me. I started scribbling as we traveled about 12 miles down bumpy country roads, getting deeper into the wilderness. Assistant Manager Isaack Miller of Quepos Hot Springs Lodge drove the truck, laughing at my moaning and groaning over the bumps. Isaack, born in Belize of Amish people who moved for a time to Pennsylvania, found my complaints hilarious, especially my insistence that a wilderness lodge should be 4-star, with room service. 

Despite my delicacy, I found myself overwhelmed by the beauty of this land along the River Canitas, where the mountains formed a deep lap for the lodge. We passed through communities where electricity and indoor plumbing were undreamed of and the inhabitants got around on foot or horseback.

IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE 

Isaack, who no longer follows the Amish ways, works with General Manager Andres Morales at the wilderness retreat consisting of rooms for 30 and a restaurant/lounge and outdoor barbeque. Roughing it can be quite decent, though, considering that Chef Daniel formerly of Costa Verde Hotel is brought in to feed the group, who also enjoy direct TV, stereo and a fully stocked bar. 

The project is owned by Americans who discovered the volcanic hot springs gushing forth near Quepos a few years ago, built the facilities and then waited for government permission to construct the pools to contain the volcanic waters. The latter permits have finally been obtained, assuring a new tourist attraction for the entire region in the coming year. Meanwhile, even without the pools, groups of fisherman and nature lovers have been booking the facilities. 

The mountains are high, the land green, the river wild. A waterfall spills down close to the lodge, and as you proceed on horseback an hour further, you begin to smell the sulpher from the hot springs of 120F degrees.

HOW WILD IS HIS VALLEY

According to our guide, more wildlife and winged creatures can be found here than in Manuel Antonio Park. Isaack has personally spotted goats, the tapir, the little spotted cat, the paca, margery and ocelot. He has seen the black guan, falcon, broad-winged hawk, and mottled owl, among others. The river abounds with 3-4 lb. machaca and catfish.

Isaack and his brother Jack built 50 rope bridges for mono tití monkeys to cross the road in Manuel Antonio without electrocuting themselves on telephone wires. A nature lover, the young man was working on a project called "Keep Saving the Rainforest," headed by Hotel Mono Azul.

For reservations at Quepos Hot Springs Lodge, or to simply arrange tours to the interior, or mountain biking excursions, contact Andres Morales at 777-3330, or 399-6202. See their website at www.queposhotsprings.com .